

Spreading Disease by Pruning
Marianne C. Ophardt
Washington State University Cooperative Extension
Area Extension Agent
What’s your
favorite type of pruning tool... a pair of ratchet hand pruners, a lightweight
pair of loppers, or a handy folding pruning saw?
Tools like these are standard equipment for gardeners who have a lot of
trees and shrubs in their landscape. They’re
needed to prune off ill-placed branches, remove older wood, and eliminate any
dead or diseased portions of a plant. Removal of these infected tissues is very important in
preventing the spread of disease. However,
many of us home gardeners may actually be spreading disease if we’re not
disinfecting our pruning tools between cuts.
How can pruning
tools spread disease? According
to WSU Plant Pathologist, Dr. Warren Copes, if you cut through a section of
stem where a pathogen, such as a virus, bacteria, or fungus is present, then
the parts of the pathogen may adhere to your pruning tool. When certain
diseases are suspected, it’s a good idea to disinfect your pruning tools
after every cut.
Copes also points
out that not every dead branch is the result of an infection by a disease.
There are also cultural and environmental problems that can lead to
dieback. Let’s look at some
common diseases that cause problems in our area and the “protocol”
suggested for disease management through pruning and disinfecting the tools we
use.
When we have
cool, wet springs, a common problem in this area is sycamore anthracnose, also
known as sycamore “blight.” True to its name it attacks sycamore trees.
This fungus disease causes cankers or lesions, which eventually girdle
a stem and lead to the death of tissues beyond the canker. Over time, repeated
infections create sycamores with unsightly crowns.
Where practical,
it’s recommended to prune out the cankers caused by the anthracnose fungus.
This improves a tree’s appearance and more importantly removes a
source of future infections. Cuts
should be made four inches below any discolored wood.
The disease is spread primarily by wind and rain, not by pruning
equipment. With this disease, you don’t need to disinfect pruning
tools after cutting off infected tissue.
One fungus
disease that we’ve seen quite a bit of this year is verticillium wilt
fungus. Unlike sycamore
anthracnose, verticillium wilt is distributed within a plant at considerable
distances from the area of obvious dieback.
It usually enters the plant by way of the root system and moves through
the vascular system to plant tissues. Dieback
of branches and limbs is caused by impairment of the root system and the
plugging of the vascular system... the system that transports water and
nutrients within the tree. In our
region, verticillium wilt is a common problem on maple, ash, sumac, redbud,
catalpa, Russian olive, and smoketree. However, there are many other types of
trees, shrubs, and garden plants susceptible to verticillium wilt.
While the
verticillium wilt fungus can travel throughout a tree, it’s usually not
evenly distributed in the plant. Copes
points out, “Since the pathogen isn’t evenly distributed, it’s difficult
to identify where the pathogen would be located and also why the fungus is not
always spread on pruning tools.” Dead
portions of trees infected with verticillium should be pruned out, but we must
keep in mind that this doesn’t remove the pathogen which is located in the
roots. Pruning tools used on
trees that have been diagnosed with verticillium wilt or are suspected to have
it, should be disinfected between trees and when you are done pruning.
Some
“blights” or diseases are caused by a bacterium rather than a fungus.
The most common one that can cause problems in local landscapes is
fireblight, Erwinia amylovora.
Fireblight attacks many members of the rose family including apple,
flowering crabapple, pear, pyracantha, hawthorn, cotoneaster, quince, and
mountain ash.
Symptoms of a
fireblight infection usually start in the spring with infected flowers
appearing water soaked. The
flowers may turn brown to black and fail to fall from the tree or shrub.
The bacteria moves down the infected blossom into the twigs, resulting
in the sudden death of other flowers and fruits on the same twig.
Often, the twigs will develop a hooked tip or
"shepherd’s crook." Twigs
and leaves look almost black, as if scorched by fire.
As the bacteria moves down a twig into a branch, the tissues darken and
die. If the outer bark is cut or peeled away, the inner tissues will appear
red and water‑soaked.
Fireblight
infections commonly occur in the spring when bacterial strands from dead
infected tissues are splashed to flowers by rainfall or irrigation water.
The bacteria may also be spread to the flowers by insects that have
visited infected plants. Fireblight often enters a plant through natural openings in
the floral parts.
Infection is
favored by wet weather and temperatures between 65 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
Because of the relatively low rainfall conditions in this region,
fireblight is not often a problem in home landscapes.
However, in some years the spring moisture and temperature conditions
are just right. This past
spring’s weather provided perfect conditions for fireblight infections in a
number of home landscapes.
Once an infection
is noted in a plant, it’s important to prune it out immediately.
Pruning cuts should be made at least 12 inches below any discolored
wood. This is because
discoloration is a chemical response by the infected plant.
It takes a while before the discoloration forms in infected wood.
This rule of
pruning at least 12 inches below discolored wood can cause a dilemma.
Copes notes that, “Sometimes, a blighted twig or spur may be less
than 12 inches away from a larger limb and such removal would disfigure the
tree. In this case, there is no
easy answer. Removing the scaffold limb may be necessary.”
If you don’t remove the limb, you should monitor the tree to see if
the disease is still present. While
12 inches is the rule, the disease doesn’t always follow the rules.
It may be present further down, especially if there is a length of time
from the first appearance of symptoms and the removal of infected wood.
Pathologists have
not been able to confirm that contaminated pruning tools actually spread
fireblight from one plant to another. However,
the accepted practice when pruning off fireblight infected wood is to disinfect
pruning tools after each cut.
Now we’ve talked
about when you should disinfect your pruning tools, but just how should the
tools be disinfected? Experts seem
to disagree on what’s best. Here
are some tips on disinfecting your tools:
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Dip the blades
of your tools in a bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) for
at least 15 seconds.
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Other possible
disinfectants include Lysol (regular Lysol containing
o‑phenyl‑phenol and
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o-benzyl-p-chlorophenol)
diluted to 20 percent; denatured alcohol (available as shellac
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thinner);
Listerine at full strength; rubbing alcohol of 70 percent, 91 percent, or
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99 percent
concentration, and Pine Sol (19.9 percent pine oil).
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If
viruses are the suspected disease, clean your tools by washing them
with detergent to physically remove the virus and inactivate virus that may
remain on the blades.
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Be aware that
the various disinfectants can be corrosive to the blades of your pruning
tools, especially bleach and Pine Sol.
Make sure to wash off all of the chemical used after the final
disinfecting, allow the equipment to dry thoroughly, and then coat the metal
parts with light oil or a silicone based spray.
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