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Fertilizing
Marianne C. Ophardt Poor
fertilization practices can lead to problems with nitrates finding their way
into surface water... streams, lakes, rivers... and into ground water.
According to Mary Robson, WSU Area Extension Agent in the greater Seattle
area, it’s important to apply fertilizers correctly to both provide needed
nutrients to plants and to prevent runoff and leaching. Robson directs
her comments, not to the agricultural producer, but to home gardeners. She
points out that at this time of year, many gardeners start thinking about
applying fertilizer to their landscape and garden plants. Gardeners should
apply fertilizers right before the plant buds break and start to grow. This
time for our area would usually be in March and early April. Trees, shrubs,
and perennials plants utilize stored nutrient reserves during the first flush
of spring growth. Fertilizer is applied to replace nutrients needed by plants
and keep the plants healthy. Keep in mind that fertilizer is not plant
“food.” Fertilizer simply provides the nutrients that a plant needs so
that it can make its own food using energy from the sun by the process of
photosynthesis The following are
tips that Robson offers gardeners regarding environmentally friendly
fertilization of landscape and garden plants: ESTABLISHED
TREES & SHRUBS Not all trees and shrubs will need
fertilization. Large established plants will often get along fine with only a
spring compost mulch or another organic mulch and no other supplemental
fertilizer. What are the signs that a plant is growing well? If the plant
develops good leaf color, puts on an average amount of new shoot growth and
length per season, and generally appears healthy, fertilizer is probably not
be needed. YOUNG TREES
& SHRUBS A young landscape plant does need spring
fertilization. If the garden has newly planted trees and shrubs, installed
within the last two to four years, be sure to fertilize these to ensure the
best growth possible. Roots that
are just getting established need extra nutrients in their second year. WHEN TO
FERTILIZE It’s easy to over-fertilize, applying too many
nutrients too often by assuming that landscape plants need lots of “plant
food.” Be sure to follow label directions for quantity and don’t
add fertilizer to tree and shrub plantings after active spring growth has
finished. This means eliminating
fertilizer applications to landscape plants after the middle of summer.
If you apply fertilizer too late in the season, the plant may fail to
go into normal fall and winter dormancy and can be harmed by winter freezes. NEWLY PLANTED
TREES & SHRUBS Robson recommends mulching newly planted
trees and shrubs with two to three inches of mulch and then waiting to
fertilize six months before applying any fertilizer to the newly installed
plant. This is good advice for the Seattle area.
However, many of our local soils contain so little nitrogen, that
fertilization at planting time will greatly benefit plant growth.
Moderate amounts of slow-release fertilizer or tablets added to the
planting hole can provide the needed nutrients as soon as the roots start to
grow out of the original root ball. If
planting in a landscape or perennial bed, slow-release fertilizer and organic
matter should usually be added to the soil when preparing the bed prior to
planting. Fertilizer bags
often have confusing labels with different numbers. Nitrogen is the main nutrient needed for good spring growth
of woody plants. Nitrogen is
represented by the first number in the set of numbers on the fertilizer label.
Since that’s the primary nutrient needed by your trees and shrubs,
you should look for a fertilizer where that number is larger than the other
two numbers that represent the amounts of phosphorus and potassium.
Slow-release formulas are more expensive, but they’re best for your
plants because nutrients are released gradually rather than all at one time.
Slow-release fertilizers generally lead to less waste and leaching of
nitrogen and promote better plant growth. If your trees and
shrubs are situated in or next to the lawn area, they’re probably getting
more than enough fertilizer through your regular lawn fertilization,
especially if you aren’t using a slow-release material.
This can explain why you don’t usually need to fertilize these
plants! Yet, it’s important to
note that the best times of year to fertilize lawns are not always the best
time to fertilize trees and shrubs. Washington
State University Cooperative Extension recommends fertilizing lawns in
September, early November, June, and May. This dichotomy in
fertilization times causes us a dilemma.
Should we fertilize the lawn at the right time or fertilize our trees
and shrubs at the right time? Fall
fertilization can lead to problems especially when tender plants are
fertilized late in the season. Fall
is the best time to fertilize our lawns to keep them healthy and thick enough
to keep weeds out. What should we
do? There may be no good
solution. However, try to avoid
applying fall lawn fertilizers to areas above tender trees and shrub roots.
Slow-release fertilizers would help avoid a late flush of growth on
woody plants that might be stimulated with a quick-release type of fertilizer. How much
fertilizer should be applied to individual trees and shrubs? That’s one of those questions that’s hard to answer
directly. The amount of
fertilizer needed depends on the size of the plant and the type of fertilizer
applied. To help you determine
the amount of fertilizer you should apply to trees and shrubs, Washington
State Unversity Cooperative Extension has a handy bulletin, “Fertilizing
Landscape Trees and Shrubs EB1034," with the recommended rates and
methods of application. You can
purchase one at your local county extension office. How can you tell
if your plants need fertilizer? Look
for plants that aren’t putting on good growth, where leaves are undersized
and chlorotic or yellow. Here
again we have another dilemma, because these are also symptoms of other plant
problems. In many cases the
symptoms of poor growth and yellow leaves turn out to be a root or soil
moisture problem. If the tree or
shrub has trunk injury, root damage, girdling roots, root rot or excessive
soil moisture or drought, the symptoms will be pretty much the same.
Fertilizer will not help these plants or solve the problem of poor
growth. How can you tell if
this is a root problem or a lack of nutrients?
If most plants in the yard and garden are growing well without any
special fertilizer applications, this is a hint that the affected plant has a
problem unrelated to soil fertility. If
the problem happened over a fairly short period of time, this is a hint that a
root or soil moisture problem is involved.
If you suspect a root problem, you can check it out by examining the base
and roots of the plant. This
involves a process of gentle excavation. Soil
moisture in the root zone and irrigation practices should also be reviewed.
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