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Fall and Winter Watering
Marianne C. Ophardt When irrigation
water is turned off and systems blown out in the fall, your landscape plants
still need water. Foggy mornings,
heavy frost, and cloudy skies often give a false impression that plants have
adequate soil moisture. Relatively
dry air and low or no measurable precipitation lead to dry soils. This means that even in the fall and winter... trees, shrubs,
and lawn grasses need water to avoid drought stress. This is particularly true during the fall and early winter
when there is little or no snow cover... or when there is an extended warm
fall. Fall and winter
watering can be crucial to having healthy plants in the landscape.
During the summer we are clued in to water stress by wilting and
dropping leaves. Plants that
experience fall and winter drought can’t tell us something is wrong until
the next year when they fail to thrive the next year.
Fall and winter drought can lead to root injury or death.
These drought-injured plants may not show symptoms of the problem until
the next season or even the next year. In
fact they may leaf out and flower just fine in the spring, relying on stored
food reserves. Once that energy
supply runs out plants weaken and start dying back.
Even if a plant isn’t killed outright, it is made more susceptible to
insect and disease attack. This type of
“winter” injury seems to be more common than we realize in this area.
For the past several years, we have been losing many of our area
birches. This has been attributed
to past winter droughts and cold temperatures without the benefit of
insulating snow cover. Birches
are particularly sensitive to fall and winter drought.
Weakened by this, the birch trees that weren’t killed outright have
become increasingly susceptible to attack by the bronze birch borer, which
attacks and eventually kills weakened birch trees.
Other shade trees
are also susceptible to winter drought damage, especially those with shallow
root systems. This includes
Norway maple, silver maple, linden, Colorado blue spruce, Norway spruce, and
many other evergreens. Shrubs are
also vulnerable to winter drought damage, especially those growing up close to
the house or in a warmer location. This
includes junipers, Oregon grape-holly, and euonymus. So what’s the
answer? It’s simple.... water
the landscape in the plants and the fall.
Yes, it will be work and you’ll have to use your domestic water but,
the effort will be worth it when you see that your plants survive and others
around you don’t do as well as yours. I’m
not talking about watering plants every day.
.... you’ll probably only have to water a couple of times in the fall
to prevent damage. Since fall and
winter watering will be more labor intensive for you, apply the water where it
counts the most... in the root zone. Consider
that established trees have roots that go out at least as far as the tree is
tall and usually further. It is in
the “dripline” and just beyond where most of the water should be applied.
The “dripline” is an imaginary vertical line that is perpendicular to
the longest side branches of the tree and perpendicular to the ground.
Water applied at the tree trunk base is wasted because there are no water
absorbing roots there. Watering recently
planted trees and shrubs is a different story.
Their roots don’t go out that far yet.
In this case you will want to water the root ball zone and just beyond.
The aim is to water where the roots are.
This makes sense doesn’t it? |
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